When I moved to the United States in 2019, I quickly realized something—Sinterklaas, one of the most beloved Dutch traditions, was virtually unknown here. In the U.S., people are familiar with Santa Claus but not with Sinterklaas, his history or the festivities surrounding him. Yet, for those of us from the Netherlands, the feast of Sinterklaas is one of the highlights of the year. It’s celebrated with a rich blend of folklore, family traditions and community spirit.
So what is Sinterklaas exactly, and why is it so deeply embedded in Dutch culture?
Who is Sinterklaas?
Sinterklaas is the Dutch version of Saint Nicholas, a 4th-century bishop known for his kindness and generosity. Though the character is based on a real person, the modern-day Sinterklaas has evolved into a more festive figure, with a deep connection to children and the holiday season. In the Netherlands, he is celebrated every year on December 5th, a night known as Sinterklaasavond.
While Sinterklaas may seem similar to Santa Claus, he has his own distinct identity. He is usually portrayed as a tall, elderly man with a long white beard, dressed in red robes and a bishop’s mitre. He carries a staff and rides a white horse named Amerigo.
The arrival of Sinterklaas
One of the most exciting parts of this tradition is Sinterklaas’ grand arrival in mid-November. According to folklore, Sinterklaas lives in Spain and sails to the Netherlands every year to bring gifts to children. Yes, you read that correctly. His arrival, called the Intocht van Sinterklaas, is a major event, with people lining the streets to watch him and his helpers dock at a chosen port. The event is televised across the country and kicks off several weeks of festivities leading up to December 5th.
Once he’s arrived, the excitement builds as children begin placing their shoes by the fireplace or door at night. In the morning, they often find small treats like chocolate letters, cookies, and other sweets left by Sinterklaas and his helpers, the Pieten. In return, children leave out a carrot or hay for Sinterklaas' horse. Over the years, the role of his helpers, traditionally known as Zwarte Piet (Black Pete), has sparked controversy, a topic we'll explore further later on.
Sinterklaas Traditions
Once Sinterklaas arrives in the Netherlands, the weeks leading up to December 5th are filled with anticipation. Children place their shoes near the fireplace or door at night, along with a carrot or hay for Sinterklaas' horse, Amerigo. In exchange, they often wake up to find small gifts, chocolate letters (initials of their names), or traditional treats like pepernoten and speculaas.
Pakjesavond
On the evening of December 5th, families come together to celebrate Pakjesavond (gifts night in English). Gifts are often creatively disguised or hidden, and accompanied by personalized rhymes that poke fun at the recipient in a good-natured way. These rhymes are an important part of the tradition and showcase the playful side of Sinterklaas celebrations. The best word to describe this night is gezellig, an untranslatable Dutch word I've written about before.
Sinterklaas rhymes
Dutch people are quite serious about their Sinterklaas rhymes. These poems are usually light-hearted but can be surprisingly witty and clever, reflecting the recipient’s personality, habits, or memorable moments from the past year. Writing these rhymes is a true art, and many families spend hours crafting the perfect poem to accompany their gift.
Chocolate letters
One of the most beloved Sinterklaas treats is the chocolate letter, usually the first letter of each person’s name. These chocolate initials are made of high-quality chocolate and come in dark, milk, and white varieties. The tradition dates back to when bakers used bread dough to make initials, which evolved into the modern chocolate letters.
Pepernoten and speculaas
Two of the most iconic treats during Sinterklaas season are pepernoten and speculaas. Pepernoten are small, crunchy cookies made with cinnamon and other warm spices, while speculaas are thin, spiced biscuits often shaped into windmills, Sinterklaas figures, or other traditional forms.
Surprises
In many Dutch households, Sinterklaas gifts are given in the form of "surprises." These are cleverly disguised gifts, often wrapped in elaborate, sometimes humorous packaging. For example, a gift might be hidden inside a papier-mâché creation or a box rigged to make it harder to open. The effort and creativity put into these surprises are all part of the fun.
Sinterklaas vs. Santa Claus
One of the most common questions I get from American friends is: How is Sinterklaas different from Santa Claus? While the two figures share a common ancestor in Saint Nicholas, their stories have diverged significantly.
-
Appearance: Sinterklaas is typically portrayed as a tall, stately figure dressed in bishop’s robes with a red mitre and a long white beard. He carries a golden staff, and rides a white horse, as opposed to Santa’s sleigh and reindeer.
-
Timing: Sinterklaas is celebrated on December 5th, well before Christmas. In contrast, Santa Claus makes his rounds on Christmas Eve, December 24th.
-
Gifts: Sinterklaas traditionally brings smaller, thoughtful gifts and sweets, while Santa Claus is often associated with larger, more commercial presents.
-
Helpers: While Santa has his elves, Sinterklaas is accompanied by his helpers, the Zwarte Pieten or Roetveegpieten, who play a prominent role in the celebrations.
The evolution of Sinterklaas and Zwarte Piet
While Sinterklaas has retained many of its traditional elements, the celebration has also evolved over time. As mentioned earlier, the portrayal of Zwarte Piet has been at the center of a cultural debate in the Netherlands, leading to changes in how the character is depicted. The shift towards Roetveegpiet, who has soot marks on their face from climbing down chimneys, has been adopted by many cities and families in response to these concerns.
Additionally, while Sinterklaas used to be a more localized Dutch and Flemish tradition, it has now spread to other parts of the world, especially in regions with a Dutch expatriate community. For example, many Dutch families in the U.S. and Canada continue to celebrate Sinterklaas, keeping their traditions alive in a foreign land.
The book of Sinterklaas
Another big part of the sinterklaas tradition is Het Grote Boek van Sinterklaas, or the Big Book of Sinterklaas. In this legendary book, Sinterklaas carefully notes every child's actions over the year. It lists each child by name and tells whether they've been kind or if they need to try harder.
Sinterklaas consults the book to decide who will receive gifts. It’s not just a list—it shows how much thought and care he puts into each child. The book reflects his fair and thoughtful approach to all.
The idea of the book creates excitement and a little suspense as children hope their good deeds are recorded. It encourages kindness and serves as a reminder that Sinterklaas always knows who’s been thoughtful and well-behaved.
Why Sinterklaas endures
Despite these changes, Sinterklaas remains one of the most cherished holidays in the Netherlands. It’s more than just a day for exchanging gifts—it's a time for family, creativity, and laughter. The excitement in the air as children place their shoes by the fireplace, the joy of writing a witty rhyme, and the camaraderie of sharing a meal together make Sinterklaas a truly special occasion.
For Dutch expats like myself, continuing the Sinterklaas tradition abroad is a way of staying connected to our roots. It’s a reminder of home, of childhood memories, and of the unique customs that make the Netherlands so culturally rich.
Final thoughts
Incorporating this centuries-old tradition into a more global conversation is my small way of keeping it alive, especially here in the U.S. where Santa Claus reigns supreme. But as I often tell my friends: once you experience the magic of Sinterklaas, it’s hard not to fall in love with it. And do not worry, the Dutch are still eating their famous stroopwafels during the Sinterklaas festivities!
